A guide to Whistler, Canada, from the godfather of freeskiing

A guide to Whistler, Canada, from the godfather of freeskiing

Canadian freeski champ Mike Douglas stands at the vanguard of his hometown’s ski culture. Here are his local favourites, from schussing down Peak to Creek to ahi poke at Sushi Village.

Cradled in British Columbia’s magnificent Coast Mountains 120km north of Vancouver, the town of Whistler is a snow-sports haven. It’s also home to Whistler Blackcomb, North America’s largest ski resort.

Biggest isn’t always best, of course. But A guide to Whistler Blackcomb’s terrain – more than 8,000 acres of endless cruisers, adventurous glades, steep bowls and backcountry possibilities – is revered for good reason. The diversity at the bottom of the hill is similarly impressive. Boosted by its role in hosting the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympics, Whistler boasts an array of restaurants, cultural experiences and high-profile events.

Named after the twin peaks looming above, A guide to Whistler Blackcomb has long been a bucket-list destination and stomping ground for the planet’s best skiers – including freeskiing legend Mike Douglas. Douglas – aka: “the godfather of freeskiing” – arrived from Vancouver Island at just 18 years old, back when Whistler’s ski scene was dominated by the Whistler and Blackcomb resorts (they merged in 1997) and the population was just around 3,000. Within two years Douglas made both the BC and Canadian freestyle teams. He has stood at the vanguard of Whistler and wider ski culture ever since.

“I actually don’t think I’d want to go back,” he says, explaining that Whistler is now a much more holistic community, with excellent amenities and cultural programming. Unlike other famous ski towns, Whistler still feels like a thriving hometown. From daycares to gymnastics programmes, “raising a family here has made me appreciate the community even more”. Ultimately, Douglas reflects, “how this [amazing] community is what kept me here. People are really progressive and forward thinking. Everything is possible.”

Not that paradise is perfect; even A guide to Whistler hallowed powder is vulnerable to climate change. Douglas remembers how “thick and full” Horstman Glacier on Blackcomb peak once was. “It was hard to imagine that in my lifetime I would see that essentially completely disappear,” he says. Observing these changes first-hand helps motivate his work with Protect Our Winters to mobilise the snow-sports community and get climate-positive policies on the national agenda. “Outdoors people who participate in these sports have an obligation to try and protect these environments.”

Best for a pre-ski coffee: Rockit Coffee Co

Skiers seeking a shot of energy before hitting the slopes will find Rockit Coffee Co by the base of the Creekside Gondola (one of the resort’s original lifts) at the end of Peak to Creek; one of Douglas’ favourite runs. Rockit is actually in Whistler Creekside, 4.2km south of Whistler; you can travel between the two by ski and ski lifts. “[It’s] my go-to coffee shop these days,” he says.

Rockit’s big draw is its ambience. “It’s got a fully committed retro-music vibe and feels warm and cosy inside,” says Douglas. “Always good tunes, great coffee and tasty food.” The walls are festooned with ’70s-style posters, art, gadgets and curios; one wall is simply a Tetris jumble of old-school speakers and subwoofers. Visitors can warm up by the wood stove, hang out on window stools or get comfy in an egg-shaped capsule chair.
Given most tourists stay in the main village, Creekside is a great spot to soak up the local atmosphere, says Douglas. He doesn’t live far away himself. “Now that I’ve got an e-bike, I’ve been using that to go skiing sometimes,” he says. “I’ll ride over to Rockit and just lock it up, riding wearing my ski boots!”

Best signature ski run: Peak to Creek

Descending 1,529 vertical metres over seven miles, Peak to Creek is one of North America’s longest continuous ski runs – without a single flat section requiring ski-pole pushing or binding unclipping.

It starts on Whistler peak, offering a sensational 180-degree view of the southern Coast Mountains, and winds all the way down (with diversions aplenty) to the base of the Creekside Gondola. “[It’s] a classic,” says Douglas.

The run is a leg-burner in the best snow conditions, but a particular challenge when it hasn’t been groomed all the way – which is often. “It can get pretty gnarly down at the bottom there!” Douglas says. “It’s a good all-rounder, a big challenge – and something that people often come here and want to try and do by the end of the week.” Thankfully it finishes next to Dusty’s, a beloved pitstop serving beers and massive BBQ plates on the terrace or by the fireplace. “The pulled-pork sandwich is always a fave there,” says Douglas.

Douglas also recommends Whistler’s Harmony Ridge and Blackcomb’s Cloud Nine as similar runs offering sweeping vistas and epic cruise potential.

3. Best for a post-ski surprise: Vallea Lumina Night Walk is an immersive, after-dark, multimedia forest adventure. Following clues and cryptic radio transmissions in search of two lost hikers, participants proceed through a mystical storyline rendered with holograms, lasers, music and more. It’s designed in collaboration with Moment Factory, which has staged Cirque Du Soleil events.

“Honestly, I remember that when I first heard about it, I thought it sounded cheesy as hell,” Douglas admits. “I didn’t really have much interest – until I started hearing from people that went to it.” The reviews were so good that he had to check it out, and “it’s world class!” he says. “I’ve probably been six or eight times. If I have friends here from out of town for a week, it’s always a recommendation.”

If visiting with children or people with access requirements, note that Vallea Lumina requires a kilometre of self-guided walking along snow-cleared but uneven winter terrain.

Best for a post-ski surprise: Vallea Lumina

4. The Japanese Hawaiian fusion menu at this local mainstay is full of delights: “way ahead of the whole poke craze,” says Douglas. He recommends the Tangy Agedashi Tofu (deep-fried tofu on a bed of bean sprouts with a soy-based sauce) and the Ahi Poke. The atmosphere – always fun, sometimes raucous – is also key.

Sushi Village is also a sentimental place for Douglas, given he worked there for four years shortly after moving to Whistler. “One of my local claims to fame is inventing the modern recipe for the Strawberry Sake Margarita on a hilarious drunken night with owner Miki Homma when I worked there in the early ’90s,” he reminisces.

But the true magic of Sushi Village lies in its legendary role in Whistler’s history. “It is the cultural heart of Whistler, in my opinion,” Douglas says. And, when asked whether his friends would agree, he says he “can’t think of a single one that wouldn’t”.

Sushi Village was Whistler’s sixth-ever restaurant, opened in December 1985 by three Vancouver friends who simply wanted to ski every day. It soon became a storied hangout for the outdoor community. “It seems most of the celebs that roll through Whistler make a stop,” says Douglas. “Check out the ‘Wall of Fame’ on the ‘five-mile’ walk to the restroom.”

Best for dinner: Sushi Village

5. The area today known as Whistler is located on the unceded territories of the Lil’wat and Squamish First Nations. European colonists – mostly prospectors and fur trappers – only started settling there in the late 19th Century as part of a long process of displacement and oppression of Indigenous communities.

Engaging with and learning about this Indigenous heritage is essential for an authentic experience of Whistler – or anywhere in modern-day Canada. And the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre is the perfect place for it. “Especially for people that haven’t been to Whistler, or haven’t been exposed to our Indigenous culture, I think it’s pretty well done and a really cool thing to check out,” says Douglas. “There are thousands of years of human history in this region that were never properly acknowledged until this century. It’s nice to see the record finally being set straight.”

The centre is a museum, art gallery and event space promoting and exploring First Nations culture and history through diverse and ever-changing exhibitions, activities and events. Visitors can connect with Cultural Ambassadors, join an interpretive forest walk, participate in Indigenous craft workshops and more.

Best for a rest day: Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre

6. Scandinave is a sumptuous spa on the north edge of town, surrounded by old-growth forest. With dry saunas, hot pools, thermal waterfalls, cold plunges and massage therapies available, there is no more luxurious way to recuperate after hard days of skiing.

“I’ll go into an hour-and-a-half rotation of hot tub, cold plunge, sauna, relaxation room,” says Douglas. “I prefer it in winter, and I prefer it when the weather isn’t good… when the skiing is crappy.” He recommends either booking ahead or going early in the day to ensure a spot and avoid the crowds.